Kraków is a hidden
gem. It is a beautiful, charming, old-fashioned city that has a striking
similarity to Prague. In addition to its magnificent baroque architecture, Kraków
intoxicates one with its romance. It has an endless array of city performers
and countless street vendors and eateries. The historic hilltop where the Wawel
Castle sits was splendid. It featured the castle, the Wawel Cathedral (Poland’s
nation church), a lush courtyard, and several museums.
Before sightseeing
the city, we explored the Wieliczka Salt Mine, a vast, thousand-foot-deep mine
with nine levels and over 100 miles of tunnels. After our three-hour tour of
the mine, our docent informed us we had surveyed only 1% of the total mine. The
mine’s massive underground church, carved in the early 20th century,
was quite neat. Interestingly, the church is still used for Mass today.
Located in Old
Town, the Main Market Square is easily one of Europe’s most vibrant public
spaces. As I traipsed around the square, I felt as though I was living in the
Old World. A bonus: Poland is one of Europe’s least expensive countries, and
thus an indulgence in a pivo is obligatory. The square is quite grand but also retains
a folksy intimacy.
St. Mary’s
Church (pictured below) was one the many highlights of our visit. According to
the Pew Research Center, approximately 92 percent of Polish citizens are
Catholic. This makes them the most religious country in Europe. While today
Poland’s people are overwhelmingly Catholic, this was not always the case. In
fact, before World War Two a quarter of Krakow’s population was Jewish.
We ended our
visit to Kraków at Oskar Schindler’s enamel factory. The factory offered us a
time travel through the city’s history. Oskar Schindler was a German
industrialist and former member of the Nazi Party who saved the lives of over a
thousand Polish Jews by employing them at his factory.
I found myself
particularly moved at Schindler’s Factory. Perhaps because one of the classes I
am a student in is largely focused on the Holocaust. In addition to this class,
I am also reading Man’s Search For Meaning,
by Viktor Frankl, an Austrian neurologist and psychiatrist as well as a
Holocaust survivor. Our visit felt as if it was the culmination of my
somewhat suppressed frustrations and profound sadness.
There was a
quote from Frankl’s book that haunted me as I walked through the factory: “I
shall never forget how I was roused one night by the groans of a fellow
prisoner, who threw himself about in his sleep, obviously having a horrible
nightmare. Since I had always been especially sorry for people who suffered
from fearful dreams or deliria, I wanted to wake the poor man. Suddenly I drew
back the hand which was ready to shake him, frightened at the thing I was about
to do. At that moment I became intensely conscious of the fact that no dream,
no matter how horrible, could be as bad as the reality of the camp which
surrounded us, and to which I was about to recall him.”
Our guide
explained to us that Mr. Schindler was a womanizer and, from an early age,
quickly inhabited a world of sin. These imperfections and flaws, while
certainly not laudable, humanized the man. If he was able to save a thousand
souls and see the immense darkness of Nazism, then so might we. Darkness
overwhelms this world but so too does light. I find a deep comfort in knowing
the latter will ultimately prevail.
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